Anyone who has followed my wine writing, even casually, will know that obscurity is my passion. The weirder, the better. I recently, for example, wrote a book about a winemaking area of Pennsylvania that thrived in the 1800s. And about a year ago, here on PP, I covered my favorite
It isn’t difficult to imagine that a visitor to a Napa Valley tasting room in the late 1970s would see a much different world than exists today. There would no traffic jams along Highway 29, and no crowds queuing up waiting for winery doors to open. Walk inside, and the
Winemakers love to talk about “terroir expression” - a slippery phrase, but for me it readily translates into variety, regionality and interest. Small artisan producers often adopt and justify traditional, low intervention techniques to achieve that expression. For example: Wild yeasts produce more complex ferments Unfiltered wines are more vibrant
The general public may be aware of Beaujolais, but that awareness doesn’t seem to go very far. The public is not very aware of the wines beyond the name, often isn’t aware of the grape variety that makes it distinctive, and rarely moves beyond the catchy Beaujolais Nouveau release that
Dubuoef shows why it is such a dominating presence in Beaujolais. Medium purple color and nose of violets,anise, and blackberry with oak accents in the background. Tastes of dark cherry and toast on the palate with good tannic structure holding it up. Finishes well, but is not terribly lingering. A
Burgundy is the kingdom of pinot noir and chardonnay, responsible for almost all wines in the region. Almost all, since a few other varieties are allowed and sometimes dominate certain appellations like Saint-Bris (sauvignon blanc) and Mâcon-Cruzille (gamay, for the reds). Made by Domaine Guillot-Broux, a family-run, careful organic producer, imported
The perfect little wine for light meals like chicken or fish with salad. The nose has peaches, flowers and minerality, and a nice tinge of chalkiness. This is a very fresh-feeling wine, with some apparent residual sugar. The fruit is upfront, then some mild, grapefruity acidity kicks in under the fresh, young red fruits on the end-palate.