What We’re Drinking – 2013 Katsaros “Valos”

The nose is marvelously sweet and fruity, with dark cherry, plums, and strawberries, with a darker herbal and balsamic background. Dryer than expected from the nose, with unsettled tannins, darker flavors come to the fore. Black cherries and plums are joined by licorice and tomato leaf. Cherries linger with dusty tannins. Acid balance is good. Overall, the impression is a still-young wine with several years in the cellar before it knits together and hits its peak. But it is very promising. Drink, in five years, with lamb. Highly Recommended. 90 points. DBH

WHO: Katsaros
WHAT: Xinomavro
WHERE: Greece, Thessaly, Larissa
HOW MUCH: $25 (media sample)