Developing a taste for fine wine can sometimes be more a curse than a blessing. There are moments when drinkability alone isn't enough. Simple fruit-driven wines fail to satisfy. Perhaps you crave more sophistication, character, elegance or complexity – a wine that goes beyond being mere liquid, providing contemplation into
“Picpoul de Pinet?,” says a woman doubtfully, picking up a green tinted bottle under the “staff’s favorite” sign at a trendy Manhattan wine shop. Though the label is hip and modern, reading "PIC" in giant red block letters, it appears to have the appellation's ancient coat of arms branded on
