Looking to spend a few days in the Prosecco region last fall, I discovered a tiny, hilltop town where tourists stroll past medieval landmarks, and winelovers sip local proseccos or Bordeaux-style red wines, in cafés overlooking scenic valleys or set in historic piazzas. Day-hikers and cyclists have plenty of winding roads and trails to follow in the surrounding landscape. For shopping, I was surprised to discover more upscale boutiques with cashmere and fine leather goods than souvenir shops.
For lodging, I discovered a captivating boutique hotel owned by a family that also has a jewelry shop in the main square. The five-star Hotel Albergo al Sole is set in a quiet corner above the main Piazza Garibaldi, with a couple outdoor dining terraces and an upscale vibe in the lobby. Down the hall from the upstairs terrace, I tucked myself into a small but comfortable space on the second floor. During my stay, an unfailingly welcoming staff pointed me toward whatever I wanted to experience in the town, whether it was a meal, a short, steep hike up to the ancient Rocca di Asolo fortress above the town, or a ride back to the Venice airport.
During my few days in the area I was fortunate to visit several wineries, and still have time to see some of the town, ambling by flower-decorated storefronts and windowsills. One afternoon I found myself at the unpretentious Gilda Patisserie Bistrot set on a perfect corner for people-watching, while I scarfed down a sandwich, then lingered over ice cream. This establishment also offers a plentiful selection of pastries; it’s a great place to stop at for a coffee any time.
Wandering along the cobbled streets, I was drawn into several attractive, upscale clothing shops—though I managed to rein myself in and only splurged on one silk scarf. The town’s shops are interspersed with significant buildings such as a museum, a medieval cathedral and tower, a former abbey, and the homes of famous people including English poet Robert Browning and Italian actress Eleanora Duse. At the back of one of the historic buildings is the unpretentious Bar al Castello, a wonderful setting for lunch or end-of-day cocktails, out on the inviting terrace with a view over the whole valley.
One evening, for dinner I went to the Hosteria Ca’ Denton at the top of the Piazza Garibaldi, only steps from my hotel. This casual eatery serves a good selection of very nice local dishes in a comfortable setting for individuals or groups.
For another dinner Trattoria Moderna Due Mori came highly recommended, only a few streets away. In a warren of small, intimate rooms, it has a wonderfully innovative menu, and I enjoyed every morsel of my meal.
Finally, after traversing the steep pathways to and from the Rocca di Asolo fortress, I rewarded myself with a hefty chunk of just-baked pinza, the raisin and nut-studded cornmeal cake baked in a traditional wood-fired oven; as I walked by, the local grocer had just placed squares of it at the front of his store. Plenty of wine is poured over this wintertime bread, which preserves it well for a week or more. Do take some home with you!
